Of Necklaces and Medals
by Elise Bramich
Friday 6th June 2008
Middlesex’s 2008 graduate show exhibits signs of a shake-up in the world of jewellery design. Non-traditional materials and outlandish shapes are the signature of this new generation of designers. This year’s class have both varied backgrounds and attitudes to their craft, which has made for some particularly intriguing collections. Tania Clarke-Hall had a well-paid job in the city until she broke free of her corporate chains to delve into the intricate and physical work of jewellery making. Her creations are delicate and striking pieces in painted and hand-worked leather, each one a labour of love. Tania talks about leather like a new friend, someone inspirational who has led her on a creative adventure. Initially interested in textiles, she undertook a fashion placement at Middlesex University. Under the instruction of accessory designer Paul Seville, renowned for his leather corsets, she realised that leather offered a world of possibilities that were not being explored.
This new jewellery designer’s necklaces vary in their form, either tightly hugging the neck in a voluptuous embrace or cascading in geometric patterns across the shoulders, while all display the same warm textures and colours. Through tactical use of colour and paper cutting techniques, Tania creates optical illusions in her pieces. She enthusiastically emphasises leather’s natural beauty and multiple textures, describing it as “the perfect creative playmate”.
Classmate Julia Graefe has just graduated from the same course, but had a very different introduction to jewellery making. Originally a goldsmith in Germany, Julia describes how her frustration with the repetition of the work and lack of freedom to experiment led her to create more spontaneous pieces.
Working from the remit, “Jewellery for Men”, the former goldsmith became fascinated by the increasing social trend for aesthetically-pleasing technology. She gives the example of iPods, which have become fashion must-haves in the last seven years: men are already unconsciously accessorising themselves. Julia decided to make a self-conscious yet masculine statement by taking electronic gadgets apart and reworking the metal components into the shape of medals. By garnishing these pieces with antique lace she conflates the past and the modern to create unusual lapel decorations. She muses on the history of antique lace making: once a highly technical process with a coveted finished product in the sixteenth century, portable technology has a similar cultural position now.
Julia’s own finished products are highly desirable medals which she confidently describes as their own reward for being brave enough to wear masculine jewellery. Their expensive components and considered construction make them a captivating symbol of decadence. Elise Bramich. Tania Clarke-Hall is currently working towards selling her pieces commercially, while more details of Julia Graefe’s exhibitions are available at HYPERLINK www.juliagraefe.com.
